Route
Name: Onba-yama Nishi-runze (御場山 西ルンゼ) F1
Mountain: Mt Onba (1059m, 御場山)
Map
sheet: 21 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]
Approach: 30 minutes
Grade: WI3 (good conditions) / WI4 (thin
conditions)
Getting
there:
If
travelling by car from Tokyo (東京),
take the Kan-etsu Expressway through Saitama, and then change onto the Joshin-etsu Expressway at the Fujioka junction (藤岡).
Leave the Joshin-etsu at Shimonita
Junction (下仁田) in Gunma
prefecture, and make your way onto Route 254. Drive
along the 254 with the river on your left until you come to a junction, and
turn right onto Route 43. Continue up this road until you reach a small
village.
Take a left and drive up a narrow road for a short
way, and park at end of the road next to a house and some terraced fields. There
is space for a couple of cars. From here you will continue on foot.
Description:
Walk
about 50m down to the river, and cross to the other side.
Walk
up the path between some old wooden buildings.
Continue
along the trail on the right side of the sawa for about 10 minutes and you'll
come to a fork in the sawa. Cross the sawa here and walk up the left fork.
The F1
icefall is about 100m up the left fork on the left side.
It is
approximately 30m high, and should be around WI3 in fat conditions. In thinner conditions, as seen in these
photos, it is about WI4. There are trees
to anchor from at the top, and a top-tope can be set from there with a 60m rope.
There
is more ice above F1, but not as big as this, and we didn’t go there. It could
be worth checking out though.
Gearing up at the start:
Overall:
Nice
steady climbing most of the way, with a steeper section near the top. Make sure
that you either have a 60m rope or two 50m ropes.
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