Mt Ryogami (両神山) – Karikura ridge (狩倉尾根) variation route

Route name: Karikura ridge (狩倉尾根)

Mountain:  Ryogami-san (両神山)

Map sheet:  27 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Time:  9-10 hours

Difficulty:  Exposed scrambling

The area around Mt Ryogami is one of the Tokyo region’s best adventure playgrounds. It’s a popular mountain, on the list of the hyakumeizan (百名山); and both its eastern hiking trail and the Hacchō ridge (八丁尾根) to the northwest, with its endless chains, are always busy at weekends. But very few venture off these main courses.

What most people don’t realise is that the mountain can also be climbed by several variation routes, navigating over and around steep and exposed pinnacles, often requiring a belay or a rappel.

The Karikura ridge is probably the most challenging of them. It could properly be called the mountain’s west ridge, but there is no marked trail on any maps; and trust me, you won’t see anybody else until you reach the summit.

Getting there:

You’ll need a car for this itinerary, as there is no public transport to the start of the route. First head to Chichibu (秩父) in Saitama, and from there you need to take route 140. Stay on this road as it winds its way up the Arakawa river, past the roadside station at Ōtaki (大滝), and keeping right at the fork just after Ōtaki. After a few more kilometres you’ll come to the dramatic Raiden Todoroki loop bridge (雷電廿六木橋).

Continue alongside the Okuchichibumomiji lake (奥秩父もみじ湖) until you come to a junction with a tunnel on your right. Take this right turn through the tunnel onto route 210. Stay on route 210 as it winds its way up an increasingly stunning gorge, surrounded by limestone walls. In the upper reaches of this road, you will pass concrete factories with mounds of lime, disused houses and infrastructure from the days when this area was a major mining operation for concrete production.

Eventually you will reach a sharp bend with a lay-by, near an old mining facility. Park in this lay-by.

Description:

To access the Karikura ridge, walk back down the road you’ve driven up for several hundred metres.

Your mission is to get up onto the ridge above you on your left, and there’s no perfect place to do it, so just pick the easiest location you can find and start hiking/scrambling up. You will soon reach an abandoned wooden building, which is interesting to explore a little.

Above here it is consistently steep, but there are plenty of trees where you need them. You may need to deploy your rope in places too.

After a couple of hours, you should reach the top of the first peak on the ridge, known as Antenna Peak (for the old radio antenna that graces it). Take a short break here as you are about to start the Karikura ridge proper.

The descent off the back of Antenna Peak is very steep, and I’d recommend rappelling the final section just to be on the safe side. From the col, continue up the ridge on the other side.

Things get more narrow, exposed and rocky, and the views all around are quite thrilling. You will cross over the 1625m Karikura peak, and after several hours you will come to the Karikura Yari pinnacle.

There are several places along the way where a rope is prudent. The first is a horizontal traverse across a knife-edge rock ridge. It’s not overly difficult, but the exposure is immense.

After that you’ll need to climb a rather steep face followed by more scrambling to regain the top of the ridge.

Eventually you will leave the exposed ridge behind, and at the top of the Karikura ridge you will hit the main ridge running south to north, and join the hiking trail. Follow this trail all the way to the summit of Mt Ryogami.

Descent:

The day is not over yet though, and you still have a long way to go before you reach the car, and this will involve traversing the Hacchō ridge. Continue over the summit to the north and after about 30 minutes of map time you’ll reach the minor summit of Mae-higashi-dake (前東岳). From here you are onto the Hacchō ridge, and several hours of continuous up and down over polished limestone with countless chains.

The two main peaks along the Hacchō ridge are Higash-dake (東岳) and Nishi-dake (西岳) and, once past those, another half hour of scrambling will bring you to the Hacchō Pass (八丁峠).

From the Hacchō Pass take the signposted descent trail that drops off into the valley on your left.

After descending for about 40 minutes map time, you will get down to the road. Continue walking down this road and in about another 30-40 minutes you will reach the lay-by where you left your car.

Summary:

An exhilarating circular scramble over the top of this fine hyakumeizan, with around 7-8 hours on consistently steep and exposed terrain. Bring a 30m rope and a selection of slings for protection as needed.

*** NEWS ***

Don't forget to order your copy of Volume 2 of the "10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan" series from Amazon today!

Mt Hinata (日向山) ice-climbing - Gamma gully (岩間ルンゼ)

Route Name:  Gamma runze (岩間ルンゼ)

Mountain:  Hinata-yama (日向山)

Map sheet:  41 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Time:  1 day

Grade:  Overall route grade 4- (WI4 IV+ cruxes)

The vicinity of Mt Kaikoma is famous for the depth and breadth of the ice-climbing opportunities that abound there. It ranges from epic large-scale alpine routes to more Scottish-style ice and mixed gullies. Once the first big snowfalls of the winter arrive though, the alpine routes lose their edge, as much of the slab ice is buried. Then it can be time to turn the attention to some of the gullies up above the Ojira-gawa river below Mt Hinata.

The Gamma runze is one of the most enjoyable of them, covering a full mix of terrain; water ice, slab ice, delicate mixed pitches, and even the chance to climb through a tunnel behind a massive chockstone!

Getting there:

If travelling by car from Tokyo (東京), take the Chuō Expressway to Sutama (須玉) and then exit onto route 141. A combination of local roads will bring you within about half an hour to the Yatateishi-tozanguchi chushajou carpark (矢立石登山口 駐車場). This small parking area is the end of the road for vehicles, and there is a metal barrier across the road, so from here you will be on foot.

Description:

THE APPROACH

Several minutes up the road you will come to the entrance to the hiking trail that leads up to Mt Hinata (日向山), but you should continue walking along the rindou, or dirt road, for around 30-40 minutes, crossing a small landslide with fixed ropes, until you reach the Nishikitaki waterfall (錦滝). This waterfall freezes in winter and can be climbed.

Continue past the viewing platform, across a bridge which spans the river below the Nishiki fall, and keep walking for about 5 minutes. You will soon come to the entrance to Gamma runze.

 

THE CLIMB

If you find Gamma runze frozen and in good condition, there will be no confusion about where to go. Just follow the sawa and you cannot go wrong. The topo shows up to 10 pitches for the gully, but this will depend on conditions, rope length etc.

Here are some of the highlights of the route:

F1:

Thin mixed pitch:

Approaching the chockstone:

Climbing out from behind:

DESCENT

Simply rappel the gully to get back to the rindou, and then walk back out to your car.

Overall:

A varied outing, taking in slab ice, vertical ice, mixed rock and ice pitches and steep snow. This is an excellent route and will not disappoint. A rack of 8 ice screws, quickdraws and slings, and 50m double ropes should be enough.

Matsuki-sawa Gendarme (松木沢ジャンダウム) – ‘Direct route’ (直上ルート)

Route Name:  Direct (‘Chokujou’) route (直上ルート)

Location:  Matsuki-sawa Gendarme central wall (松木沢ジャンダウム中央壁)

Map sheet:  13 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Time:  1 day

Length:  6 pitches

Grade:  5.8

There are relatively few multipitch climbing venues within a few hours of Tokyo where you stand a good chance of having the route all to yourselves; and even fewer where you can climb largely on natural trad protection. The Matsuki-sawa Gendarme ticks both these boxes.

Historically there have been a host of routes put up on the walls of this beautiful fortress up above the river on the flanks of Nakakura-yama (中倉山). But over the years, many of them have fallen into disuse because of loose rock. The Chokujou route takes a direct line up a system of cracks, offwidths and slabs right in the heart of the central wall. With largely solid rock throughout, and requiring almost exclusively trad protection, it’s a fun and challenging adventure that should be high on your list.

Getting there:

If travelling from Tokyo (東京) by car, take the Tōhoku Expressway as far as Utsunomiya (宇都宮), then change onto the Nikko-Utsunomiya road until it turns into Route 120. Turn left onto Route 122 and stay on this until it meets Route 250, then turn right onto Route 250. Keep going straight on up the Ashio (足尾) valley on this road until you reach its end at the small car park above the Akagane Water Park (銅親水公園).

Description:

From the car park, you need to walk a little further up the road you drove in on, go past the barrier blocking the road, and cross the bridge to get over the river on the left. Walk along the road as it doubles back round to the left and then swings northwest again towards the entrance to Matsuki-sawa (松木沢).

You’ll need to follow this road for around 1.5 hours. As you reach the old Matsuki village you’ll see the Gendarme up above on your left, and will eventually reach the end of the road at a dam parallel with the Gendarme.

From here, cross the bridge over the river and head up the slope above, following a faint climbers trail with cairns and occasional pink tape on tree branches along the way. When you reach the rock face, walk along the bottom to the left until you locate the chimney which is the start of the first pitch.

Approximate pitch descriptions for the route are as follows:

Pitch 1: Climb the vertical chimney crack on natural pro and continue up over a slight bulge to a piton belay. (25m 5.7)

Pitch 2: Continue straight up the corner crack system above (offwidth in places) to the bottom of a steep flared offwidth. Climb this and exit leftwards to a bolted belay. (3m 5.8)

Pitch 3: Climb the bulge on climber’s right, then continue up the run-out edge leftwards, being very careful not to dislodge any loose rocks. (50m 5.6)

Pitch 4: There are three parallel cracks systems that all go at a similar grade. Take your pick and climb the steep but featured wall above to a bolted belay. (30m 5.6)

Pitch 5: Climb the crack system trending up and rightwards, then climb a slab to your left to a bolted belay. (50m 5.5)

Pitch 6: This pitch can be avoided by heading up the loose gully round the back. But if you want to take it on, climb the line of weakness up the vertical face of the Fist rock (Kobushi-iwa, 拳岩) which constitutes the summit of the central wall. There are few options for protection, and the exposure here is massive, but there are enough holds to get through it. The final overhang is exhilarating! (20m 5.8)

Descent:

From the top of the Gendarme you could continue scrambling up the ridge behind to gain the main summit ridge of Nakakura-yama, and then descend the long hiking trail from there back down.

Alternatively, just descend the Gendarme back to the road you walked in on. To do this, head down on your right and follow a steep and loose trail that weaves its way down through several gullies, with in-situ ropes in a few places. Be careful with loose rock and scree, and consider rappelling the sections with fixed ropes unless you are happy with the condition of those ropes.

It should take around 30 minutes to reach the bottom of the Gendarme, and then you just need to descend the hiking trail back to the dam and the road, and then a walk back to the carpark.

Overall:

An exciting direct route up the centre of the Matsuki-sawa Gendarme, in an area that blends both industrial history and natural beauty. Bring 50m double ropes, a full set of nuts and cams, and around 12 quickdraws.

For more route descriptions, topos and general info on Japan's fantastic climbing, pick up your copies of the Climb Japan books on Amazon!

The East ridge of Mt Ryuōdake (龍王岳東尾根)

Route Name: East ridge (東尾根)

Mountain: Ryuōdake (龍王岳 2872m)

Length: Approx. 500m

Time: 3 hours to the summit

Grade: II-IV / Overall grade 1 alpine route

Map sheet: 36 (山と高原地図 map series – 剣/立山)

Ryuōdake, or the dragon king mountain, sits above the Murodō plateau opposite and just slightly southwest of the Tateyama massif. It’s a fairly minor peak, but with spectacular panoramic views of Tateyama and the North Alps. Combined with easy access on good hiking trails, this all makes it a popular choice for a day hike out of Murodō.

But its rather grandiose name begins to make more sense once you see its beautiful crenelated East ridge come into view from the Ichinokoshi pass below Tateyama. The ridge presents a thoroughly enjoyable outing on a mix of terrain, covering slabs and cracks in the lower half, and chimneys and airy scrambling across the upper pinnacles.

It's a perfect place to practise moving together roped up and placing running protection, stopping to set anchors and belay pitches where needed; all vital skills in the alpine climber’s toolbox. And all in one of the most picturesque settings imaginable.

Getting there:

Access requires getting up to Murodō (室堂) on the large plateau below the summit of Tateyama (立山) in the North Alps.  If travelling from Tokyo on public transport there are a couple of ways you can do this, none of them easy, but the quickest and cheapest way is as follows. Take a Chuō Line limited express Super Azusa from Shinjuku station to Matsumoto (松本), then change onto the Ōito Line (大糸線) for a local train to Shinano-Ōmachi (信濃大町). From there you’ll need to take a bus to Ōgisawa (扇沢, 45mins, ¥1330). At Ōgisawa, queue up at the ticket office and buy a return ticket for the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route (立山黒部アルペンルート, timetables here). This convoluted but impressive series of stages will take you through a trolley bus up to the famous Kurobe Dam (黒部ダム), followed by a funicular railway, a ropeway and then a final trolley bus through Mt Tateyama to Murodō.

The approach:

From Murodō head out of the top station and follow the gently rising trail to the southeast in the direction of the Ichinokoshi pass (一の越峠), reached in around an hour’s map time.

Ryuōdake and its East ridge are clearly visible from the pass. To get to the start of the climbing, continue down the trail on the other side of the pass for about 10 minutes, then cut across on your right to reach the foot of the ridge.

Description:

At first the ridge is just a hike, but pretty soon you’ll reach the first rocks. In the lower half of the ridge, it is possible to avoid any climbing altogether if you wish to, by following the path of least resistance up a sort of thin trail on the right side of the ridge. But that’s not really what you’re here for, so my advice is to get involved as soon as you can.

The first piece of climbing possible is a short but steep crack up a boulder, then continuing up slabs and cracks above.

The higher you go, the more choices you can make around your precise route, and there is plenty of scope for more interesting climbing, including several steep and demanding sections. There is some in-situ gear, but protection is generally cams and slings around rock horns.

Eventually you’ll reach the upper section, the traverse of the pinnacles of the dragon’s back. Keep following the obvious route, mostly simul-climbing punctuated with several pitches.

After about 3 hours of delightful climbing, a final scramble leads directly to the rocky 2872m summit. The views up here are second to none.

Descent:

There are several ways off the mountain and back down to Murodō. After an initial 10-minute scramble down off the summit pyramid, either take the trail to the northeast for 20 minutes directly back down to the pass (cold beer available at the hut), and then reverse the trail you walked up in the morning. Or take the trail to the northwest over 2831m Mt Jōdo (浄土山) and then down the other side to reach Murodō in around 45 minutes.

Overall:

A fun and engaging outing on good rock, in an area of outstanding natural beauty. This route could also be a great place to introduce novice climbers to some of the techniques of alpine climbing. Bring a 50m rope and a basic trad rack with plenty of slings and alpine quickdraws.

DON'T FORGET to pick up your copies of the first two books from Climb Japan on Amazon, complete with topos, route descriptions, photos and more of some of the best alpine routes in Japan!