Matsuki-sawa (松木沢) ice-climbing – Umekoba-sawa (ウメコバ沢) gully

Route name:  Umekoba-sawa (ウメコバ沢)

Location:  Matsuki-sawa valley (松木沢)

Map sheet:  13 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Time:  1 day

Grade:  WI3+ / Overall grade 3- route

FA:  Unknown

The Matsuki-sawa valley, near the old copper mining centre of Ashio, is not only a beautiful and remote location with a fascinating recent history, but is home to a handful of the best frozen sawa ice climbs in the Tokyo area. Due to the low altitude, routes here generally come into condition for a shorter window of time between mid-January and mid-February.

Umekoba-sawa is less consistent than the other routes here, with a rather lengthy approach and a bit of a walk up the stream bed itself to reach the main centrepiece F3 icefall. But it more than makes up for this with some of the most breathtakingly beautiful jellyfish ice formations you will find anywhere!

 

Getting there:

If travelling from Tokyo (東京) by car, take the Tōhoku Expressway as far as Utsunomiya (宇都宮), then change onto the Nikko-Utsunomiya road until it turns into Route 120. Turn left onto Route 122 and stay on this until it meets Route 250, then turn right onto Route 250. Keep going straight on up the Ashio (足尾) valley on this road until you reach its end at the small car park above the Akagane Water Park (銅親水公園).

Description:

From the car park, you need to walk a little further up the road you drove in on, go past the barrier blocking the road, and cross the bridge to get over the river on the left. Walk along the road as it doubles back round to the left and then swings northwest again towards the entrance to Matsuki-sawa (松木沢).

Once into Matsuki-sawa you need to keep walking for about 1.5 hours until you reach the entrance to Kuro-sawa (黒沢). Initially you will be on a good dirt road until you arrive at the Matsuki village. From there onwards the road becomes less maintained, and in several places has been completely covered in boulders from landslides and rockfall from the mountainside on your right. On the left side of the valley large rock faces begin to appear, and the summit ridge of Nakakura-yama (中倉山) can be seen high above. This ridgeline eventually leads over Koushin-san (庚申山) to Nokogiri-yama (鋸山) on the main ridge before the summit of Sukai-san (皇海山), and is a dramatic and high-quality hike in its own right. You will also walk past the imposing Matsuki-sawa Gendarme up on your left, which is home to some excellent rock routes.

Eventually you will arrive at a large concrete dam next to the Kuro-sawa gully coming down the mountainside on your left. Continue on a bit further past another dam, and then find a place to cross to the opposite bank of Matsuki-sawa.

The narrow gorge-like entrance to Umekoba-sawa is on your left surrounded by dramatic cliffs, and it should have taken a couple of hours of walking to get here.

As you enter Umekoba-sawa you will quickly arrive at the first falls, F1 and F2, but these rarely form well enough to be climbed. They can be bypassed on the right side by climbing up a short rock face with a fixed rope, then continuing up some easy rock scrambling and walking until the point where you arrive back into the main stream bed.

From this point on things should be frozen and you can walk up the slab ice of the main stream. Continue up for around 20 minutes until F3 comes into view ahead.

This stunning formation of jellyfish ice blobs is the main event here, and is generally regarded as around WI3+/4, depending on conditions. It is a full 50m rope length, hence double ropes are needed to get back down in a single rappel.

From the top of F3, continue up the slab ice a bit further, and as you round a bend F4 will come into view. This icefall is very similar to F3 in size and difficulty, but does not form fully at the top in every winter season, so take a good look at its condition before deciding to climb it.

Descent is simply to reverse everything, rappelling the larger ice formations, all the way back out to Matsuki-sawa, and then walk back the way you came to the carpark.

Overall:

The icefalls of Umekoba-sawa are uniquely beautiful, in an austere and inspiring setting surrounded by steep rock walls and ridges. Bring 8-10 ice screws and 50m double ropes, and don’t forget your camera!

Ichinosawa Ōtaki (一ノ沢大滝) ice-climbing

Route Name:  Ichinosawa Ōtaki (一ノ沢大滝)

Area:  Ōmukawa (大武川) river drainage

Map sheet:  41 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Time:  1-2 days

Grade:  WI4 / Overall grade 4+ alpine route

FA:  遠藤則世、宮内幸男 (わらじの仲間) (1983.12.18)

The Ichinosawa Ōtaki is a real gem, a huge icefall hidden deep in the Ōmukawa drainage at the northern end of the South Alps between Mt Kaikoma and the Houousanzan range. Rising some 170 metres from a narrow, secluded gorge, the route offers sustained, engaging ice rather than a single dramatic crux, with difficulties that are modest on paper but serious in context.

What distinguishes Ichinosawa Ōtaki is not steepness alone, but scale, remoteness, and commitment. The long, complex approach, the exposed descent into the valley, and the sheer length of the climb combine to create an outing that feels unmistakably alpine. Retreat or self-rescue would be extremely difficult from here in the event of an accident. When conditions align, the result is a climb of unusual stature in Japan.

Getting there:

If travelling by car from Tokyo (東京), take the Chuō Expressway to Nirasaki IC (韮崎) and then exit onto route 27 heading west to join route 20 (甲州街道). Continue along route 20 until the turn-off for the Ōmukawa Forest Road (大武川林道).

Turn toward Ōmukawa and follow the forest road upstream past the Shinosawaotaki camping ground (篠沢大滝キャンプ場). Drive as far as winter conditions and snow clearance allow, typically to the gate / parking area used as the trailhead.

Description:

THE APPROACH

Part of what makes the Ichinosawa Ōtaki such a serious outing is this approach. It takes approximately 5-6 hours from the gate to the foot of the Ōtaki, and most of that time is spent on steep and complex terrain. For this reason, most parties choose to carry in camping gear and do it over two days, walking back out on day two in daylight. But it can be done in a long day by a fit and competent team.

From the gate you need to walk up the rindou for around half an hour until it crosses a bridge over the Ōmukawa river. After this bridge you need to head up steep slopes to gain the ridgeline above. There are multiple spurs and minor ridges coming down off this ridgeline, which is fine on the way up, but could cause problems on the way back down if in the dark.

Once you hit the ridgeline, just continue up relentlessly on frozen soil and leaves through the forest. It is steep and exposed in places, and chain spikes are recommended. After several hours of this you will reach the 1393m ‘summit’ of this ridgeline, from where you may glimpse the Ōtaki in the distance.

Now you need to descend into Ichinosawa, and most teams find this next hour rather unpleasant. It is steep and exposed, with no trail to speak of. In poor conditions you may need to rappel from trees.

When you arrive at the bottom, turn right and start heading carefully up the Ichinosawa stream, over boulders and frozen ice steps at WI2-3.

At one point you will arrive at a 50m icefall named the ‘lower Ōtaki’ (下の大滝). If this is not formed well enough to climb it, bypass it by heading steeply up the slopes on the right bank, traversing past it and then descending back into the sawa.

After about an hour or so of this you will eventually arrive at the foot of the enormous Ōtaki.

THE CLIMB

The Ōtaki is approximately 170m tall, stunningly beautiful, and is climbed in four pitches if you have 50m double ropes. Mentally it can be split into three sections, with the middle part being the steepest and most challenging.

Pitch 1: Climb the lower wall at around WI4. This first pitch is rather chandeliery and thin in places. The first 30m is steep, and then it eases off slightly to continue up better ice to belay on a narrow terrace under a rock wall on the right edge. (45m WI4)

Pitch 2: Continue up on the right side of the icefall until things steepen to a sustained 80 degrees, and belay on screws at the end of your rope. (40m WI4+)

Pitch 3: Continue steeply for around 30m, before things begin to ease off slightly. (40m WI4+)

Pitch 4: Continue up slab ice and steeper steps until you arrive at the top. (50m WI3-3+)

From the top of the Ōtaki, descent can be made in 4 rappels on double ropes from v-threads (abalakovs).

Once safely back down at the foot of the icefall, you now need to reverse the initial hour back down the sawa, making short rappels down various ice steps where needed.

Once you reach the point you entered the sawa from, you now need to ascend the steep slopes back up to point 1393m on the ridgeline. From there you must reverse your approach route back down the ridgeline to the forest rindou. This is where things can get tricky in the dark. With many ridges dropping down from this main ridgeline, it can be very hard by headtorch to locate the correct ridge without GPS. Keep a rope near the top of your pack because you will most likely have to resort to rappelling off trees at some point, depending on conditions and which ridge you end up descending.

Eventually you will hit the rindou, and a more relaxed walk back across the bridge and out to the gate and your car.

Overall:

One of the great prizes of Japanese winter climbing, and a full-on mountain day defined by endurance, judgement, and atmosphere. Take double ropes, around 12-14 ice screws, and consider chain spikes for the approach and walk back out. Most importantly, be sure of your fitness and preparation and understand the scale of the day you are in for. Despite the modest altitude, this is a far more off-piste ‘alpine’ day than anything on the nearby Yatsugatake range, and will provide a proportional sense of accomplishment.

Yatsugatake (八ヶ岳) ice-climbing – Hirogawara-sawa (広河原沢) No3 gully (3ルンゼ)

Route Name: Hirogawara-sawa (広河原沢) No3 gully (3ルンゼ)

Mountain:  Amidadake (2805m 阿弥陀岳)

Map sheet:  33 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Time:  1 day round trip

Grade:  WI4 / Overall Grade 3+ alpine route

Of all the winter routes in Hirogawara-sawa on the southwest aspect of Amidadake, No3 gully might be the best of them. Deep and committing, it has a remote alpine feel to it, requiring the full skillset of ice and mixed terrain. And when you get to the top, as an added bonus you then get to climb the South ridge (Nanryo, 南稜) from its crux at the P3 gully up to the summit… A big route with big satisfaction!

Getting there:

There is no public transport to the trailhead for this route. As a pre-dawn start is required, it is therefore necessary to travel by car.

If travelling by car from Tokyo (東京) take the Chuō Expressway as far as the Kobuchizawa (小淵沢) interchange. After passing through the ETC barriers, turn right and drive uphill on route 11 for around 5 minutes to a set of traffic lights. Turn left and continue until route 11 changes into route 484. Stay on route 484 for around 10 minutes, and then turn right onto a narrow road uphill in the direction of Funayama-jūjiro (船山十字路). There is space for around 15-20 cars to park here.

Description:

From the carpark at Funayama-jūjiro walk up the road for several minutes and pass through the gate. Continue up the forestry road in the direction of Hirogawara-sawa. Eventually the road becomes less defined as it narrows into a valley path.

After about an hour of hiking the path crosses to the right bank of Hirogawara-sawa. Another 20 minutes will bring you to the Futamata junction (二俣), the point where the left and right forks of the river part ways.

Take the right fork here into the Migi-mata (右俣), and continue up the stream. Some way up you will come to a short ice step that is usually not formed, so you may need to scramble up a sort of natural staircase in a cave on the right side.

At the top of this is another fork in the stream. The right fork goes to Christmas runze (クリスマスルンゼ), and the left fork continues up towards No3 gully.

As you get further in you will begin to find short frozen ice steps, which can be climbed unroped.

Eventually you will reach the junction where No2 and No3 gullies part ways. Take the right fork and head up into No3 gully.

Depending on when you are climbing, this next section might involve wading through some deep snow that has accumulated at the bottom of the main gully. Once through this, continue up the steepening slopes until you reach the crux 30m 3-step Ōtaki icefall (大滝).

In early season conditions (Dec) this will probably require a rope due to the exposure, and there is an anchor midway up it. In later season (Jan) with more snow on the ground, you may be able to solo it, but you must decide based on conditions.

Above the Ōtaki continue climbing slab ice and steep snow slopes. You will eventually see an icefall on the right, which is often not fully formed. To bypass this, continue up the slopes on your left in the direction of P4 on the Nanryo until you reach the rockface.

From here traverse rightwards and cross back into No3 gully, and ascend up to the foot of the P3 gully on the Nanryo.

Climb the P3 gully up to the Nanryo, and then continue up the Nanryo to the 2805m summit of Amidadake. The views up there on a clear day in winter are outrageously beautiful!

Descent:

Take the trail to the west off the summit. A short walk along a narrow ridge brings you to some rocks, with a ladder and chains. Climb over these rocks and down the other side to a signpost.

From here you can see your descent down the Okoya ridge (御小屋尾根) stretching out below, and the top section has a fixed rope in place down the first 100m. Pick your way carefully down it, and after around an hour you’ll come to a sign for a water source off to the left (不動清水) at about 2206m. Keep going down the ridge and after another 1h10mins of map-time you will arrive at a fork in the trail just after the 2137m summit of Mt Okoya (御小屋山).

The right fork goes to Minotoguchi bus stop, and the left fork will take you back to Funayama crossroads. The car park at Funayama crossroads is another 1h20mins of map-time down the ridge.

Overall:

A first-class winter alpine route to a major summit in the Yatsugatake massif. Bring 5-6 ice screws, a selection of nuts and quickdraws, and expect to be alone for most of the day.

Yatsugatake (八ヶ岳) ice-climbing - Sanjahou couloir (三叉峰ルンゼ)

Route name: Sanjahou runze (三叉峰ルンゼ)

Mountain: Yokodake (横岳) in the Yatsugatake (八ヶ岳) massif

Map sheet: 33 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図) series]

Length: approx. 400m

Time: 6 hours to summit ridge

Grade: WI3-4 / overall grade 3 winter alpine route

Getting there:

If traveling by train, take a Super Azusa limited express train from Shinjuku (新宿) to Chino (茅野 approx. 3 hours). Outside the JR station at Chino take a bus to Minotoguchi (美濃戸口 approx. 1 hour). This is the gateway to the Akadake-kōsen side of Yatsugatake.

From the car park start hiking up the trail that is signposted to Akadake. The walk-in takes around 3 hours by map time. It is split into 3 stages. The first hour brings you past a series of buildings and on a little further to the Minoto-sansō (美濃戸山荘) hut. The next hour follows the rindou (forest road) until it finishes at a bridge across the sawa (stream). From the other side the path narrows and meanders alongside the sawa for another hour or so until you reach the hut at Akadake-kōsen. This hut serves as basecamp for all the routes in the area.

Description:

From the hut you need to follow the hiking trail in the direction of the pass at the start of the Nakayama ridge (中山尾根). After about 15 minutes you will reach a small bridge. Leave the trail and turn left right after this bridge.

Keep heading up for around an hour, taking the right fork at a couple of junctions. With the Sekison ridge (石尊稜) on your right, you will eventually arrive at the start of the Sanjahou couloir.

In early December the first icefall is at its tallest, around 12m of vertical before it eases off a bit. It could also be rather thin. By January it is usually a bit shorter due to snow accumulation at the bottom.

After the icefall, continue up the gully on steep snow with occasional old pitons and bushes in the left wall for protection or anchor building to finish the pitch.

The route now continues up frozen waterfalls of varying lengths up to 10m in height separated by stretches of steep snow inside the gully. Protection throughout these first few hundred metres is ice screws in the waterfalls. It can be simul-climbed if you're confident, but 3-4 pitches should suffice to reach the end of this section.

Eventually a large open ledge is reached, which marks the end of the narrowest section of the gully. From here there are two possible directions, heading up a frozen waterfall left or right. Take the right fork and climb the icefall and then a 6-7m rock chimney above, and belay at the top on two Petzl bolts on the left wall.

From here the angle eases off a little and the route continues up onto the upper face alongside the Sekison ridge on climber’s right. The face opens up gradually, and the rock gendarmes of the Daidoushin (大同心) and Shodoushin (小同心) can be seen off to the left.

When you reach the headwall, you need to move up to the right and around a corner to a peg belay on the upper section of the Sekison arête. From here you have two options to finish. The easiest option would be to traverse a full length to the right, and then climb easy slopes to gain the summit ridge hiking trail.

The more interesting option is to climb the final two pitches of the Sekison arête. The first pitch takes the initial groove at grade III, then continues up steeply and sharply on the arête, before heading round to the right and up to belay on a rock spike. Protection is rather sparse, but the pitch is well featured.

Next, continue up and into a broad gully on steep snow, which leads to the top after around 70m.

Once on the main hiking trail, head left up the ridge to the summit of Yokodake (横岳), or right towards Akadake (赤岳). After about an hour of moving along the ridgeline towards Akadake things level off a little, eventually reaching a junction marked by a stone Buddhist statue of Jizo. The statue marks the entry point to the Jizo ridge on the right, and this is the quickest descent back to the Akadake-kōsen hut. This path is steep but straightforward. An hour of descent will bring you down to the Gyouja-goya hut.

Overall:

A superb gully route up the face to the left of Sekison arête, with a stunning and airy finish to gain the summit ridge. One of the classic winter gully routes in the area, although ice conditions can be fickle some years. Take about 6 ice screws, a couple of smaller cams, and a selection of slings and quickdraws for protection.