Myoujo-san P6 South face (明星山P6南壁) - Saganryo (左岩稜)

Route Name:  Saganryo (左岩稜)

Mountain: Myoujo-san P6 South face (明星山P6南壁)

Length: 10 pitches (approx. 275m)

Time: 5-6 hours to the top of the last pitch

Grade: V A1 / Overall grade 4- alpine climb

The South face of Mt Myoujo’s P6 pinnacle is legendary. Rising from the Kotaki river in an unbroken sweep of steep and imposing limestone, the face is home to some of the longest and best rock climbs in Japan. Optimal conditions for climbing on the face are usually found in autumn, when temperatures are cool and the river level is low, meaning one can cross the Kotaki without problems.

The left rock ridge, or Saganryo, is the very definition of a stunning natural line. Rearing up directly opposite the car park and viewing platform, the Saganryo forms the natural left edge of the face. It is steep from the outset, significantly overhanging in its lower half and, for the vast majority of parties, requires a basic familiarity with aid-climbing techniques to ascend.

Once through the overhangs, the upper half of the route follows the arête directly at moderate grades, but with no in-situ protection or anchors, so a full trad rack is a necessity.

The Saganryo got its first ascent in November of 1968, two years after its slightly easier neighbour the Left Face route. And it was just three more years till it received its first winter ascent, in January of 1971! The route is so highly sought after that it gets its own full-colour spread in the Japanese “Challenge! Alpine Climbing” guidebook, and it would be hard to argue with that assessment. If exposure is your game, look no further!

Getting there:

Your ultimate destination is the car park just past the Kotakigawa Hisui-kai tenbō-dai, or Kotaki river Jade gorge viewpoint (小滝川ヒスイ峡展望台). This viewing platform overlooks the South face of Mt Myoujo across the gorge, and the nearby car park has a toilet block and space for a dozen or so cars.

If travelling by car from Tokyo, expect a drive of around 5.5 hours each way if traffic is good. The easiest route is up the Kanetsu Expressway, then left onto the Joshinetsu Expressway just after the Kamisato Service Area (上里SA). Follow this all the way until it merges with the Hokuriku Expressway near the coast, and head west as far as Itoigawa (糸魚川). At Itoigawa head left onto Route 148 and follow this to Kotaki (小滝). Once there take a right turn onto Route 483 through Kotaki village. Just after the Suzuki liquor shop (鈴木商店) turn right onto a smaller road and follow it all the way to Jade Canyon and your destination. It should take around half an hour or so from Itoigawa to the car park.

If travelling by train, take the Shinkansen to Itoigawa, and then either a taxi straight to your destination, or a local train to Kotaki followed by a taxi. You could also walk there from Kotaki station in around an hour if so inclined.

Description:

Walk across the car park to the edge and you will find a rough trail on the left disappearing down the hillside among the trees.

Scramble down this trail for around 10 minutes to reach the riverside. The Saganryo starts right opposite, so find the easiest way across that you can, and then scramble up to the foot of the first pitch.

Approximate pitch descriptions for the route are as follows:

Pitch 1: Climb the short reddish-coloured rock on your right, then continue up through the bushes to a slightly overhanging rock step with in-situ pitons. Climb through this and up to a narrow ledge, then follow the ledge to the right to gain a comfortable belay terrace. (25m V)

Pitch 2: Climb the grooves above, then to the right, then back to the left to belay at the bottom of an obvious left-trending ramp below a large overhang. (30m IV)

Pitch 3: Climb a short step to gain the ramp, then ascend it until you reach the bottom of the bolt ladder. Climb the bolt ladder at A1 up the overhanging face to a 2-bolt anchor on a narrow and exposed ledge. The view down to the huge boulders in the river directly below is particularly wild on this pitch! (30m IV A1)

Pitch 4: Climb the steep slabby grooves (solid bolts close enough to each other to A0 if needed) up and to the right, then climb through a steep overlap trending left (dodgy old pitons for protection), to belay on a mix of pitons and trad gear on the ledge. (30m V / IV+ A0)

Pitch 5: Climb initially up the crack on the right side, then transition left into the groove and follow it up to a good belay on the Matsu-no-ki (松の木) terrace. (25m III+)

The tree that gives the Matsu-no-ki ledge its name:

Pitch 6: Traverse left along a narrow ledge to gain the arête, then climb steeply up well-featured ground to belay at a solid tree. (45m III)

Pitch 7: Continue up the arête and make your own belay anchor. (45m III)

Pitch 8: Continue up the arête. (40m III)

Pitch 9: Climb up to the Oiwa (large rock, 大岩), then continue past it on the left up easy ground to belay at the bottom of the final rock face. (30m III)

Pitch 10: Climb the right edge of the rock face, then traverse left at the top to the end of the climbing on a good ledge with a large distinctive tree with pink tape. (35m III)

Descent:

The descent down to the Kotaki river follows a rough climbers’ trail and takes approximately 45 minutes. It is well marked with pink tape and easy to follow.

At first you need to cross the top of the left gully. This involves an initial short down-climb, then a traverse of around 10m, then a short climb up the other side. There is a fixed rope across all of this.

Once on the other side, just follow the pink tape and fixed ropes as the trail descends steep ground and trends across a handful of minor gullies and arêtes. Eventually the angle becomes more amenable, and you will notice that you are losing height in relation to the river.

Eventually you will pop out onto an overgrown old rindou (mountain road) that heads to the right. Cross this road and locate the pipeline going down the hill. Follow this until you reach the river, and then cross the pipeline and rappel off the other end on an old fixed rope. From the other side, just ascend the wooden steps to gain the trail at the top, and follow it to your left for 5-10 minutes until you regain the road and the car park.

Overall:

With front-loaded difficulties up a spectacularly steep and exposed first half, followed by a gentler and more relaxed trad second half up the arête, this route is worth every bit of effort it extracts from you! Bring a full trad rack, as well as aiders and a fifi hook, and prepare yourself for some seriously exposed positions.

*** NEWS ***

For full topo and description of another three-star classic route on this legendary face, order your copy of Volume 2 of the "10 Classic Alpine Climbs of Japan" series from Amazon!