Route name: Sekison-ryo (石尊稜)
Mountain: Yokodake (横岳)
in the Yatsugatake range (八ヶ岳)
Map sheet: 33 [Yama-to-kougen-chizu (山と高原地図)
series]
Time: 4-6 hours (in
good conditions)
Length: 4 pitches +
4-500m simul-climbing
Difficulty: Grade 1+
alpine route / IV crux
The Sekison arête cuts steeply up the West face of Yokodake to the right of the
Sanjahou-runze
ice gully, and is the type of route that can shrink or grow in stature and
experience according to the conditions of the day. In dry or consolidated
conditions, it will be an easy romp up some of the most ‘big mountain’ terrain
in the area. But in deep unconsolidated fresh snow it can provide the sort of
day normally expected on a much bigger and wilder route. As such, don’t let the
grade lull you into under-estimating it; check the weather and snow conditions
in the week prior to your ascent, and plan accordingly.
With
rock pitches at the bottom and top, the middle section is a stunning snow arête
that snakes up through the wide bowl of the upper West face, providing views
across the whole sweep of the face to both left and right. Don’t forget your
camera, because in snowy conditions this route is surely one of the most
photogenic in the area!
Getting
there:
If
travelling from Tokyo, take a Super Azusa Limited Express train from Shinjuku to Chino (approx. 2.5 hours). Outside the JR station at Chino take a
bus to Minotoguchi (美濃戸口, approx. 45
minutes). This is the gateway to the Akadake-kōsen side of Yatsugatake. From
the carpark start hiking up the trail that is signposted to Akadake. The
walk-in takes up to 3 hours by map time. It is split into 3 stages. The first
hour brings you past a series of buildings and on a little further to a hut with
a water source, which makes a good resting point for 5 minutes. The trail
splits here, with the right fork going up Minami-sawa
(南沢) to the Gyouja-goya hut (行者小屋). This is the
quickest approach if you are planning a single day round-trip ascent. If you
are planning on staying in the Akadake-kōsen hut, you need to take the left
fork up Kita-sawa (北沢).
The next hour follows the rough dirt road until it finishes at a bridge across
the sawa. From the other side the path narrows and meanders alongside the sawa
for another hour or so until you reach the hut at Akadake-kōsen. This hut and
its campground serve as basecamp for all the routes in the area, as well as for
the popular Ice Candy artificial ice wall.
Description:
As
you exit the Akadake-kōsen hut by the front door turn right and follow the
trail to the end of the hut and then up through the forest. Cross the bridge
and keep going until you reach the foot of the first of the zigzags that head
up to the Nakayama
ridge. This is the entry point for both the Sanjahou-runze and the Sekison arête.
Enter
the sawa and keep going for several hundred metres, slowly gaining height and
keeping right at any forks you come to. Eventually you will arrive at the foot
of the arête, marked by a piece of tape on a branch. In deep snow conditions
you may find it easier to continue for another hundred metres or so and then
strike up left to gain the arête slightly higher.
Once
on the arête, continue up through easy but exposed terrain until you reach the
foot of the first rock step. There is a good tree to belay from about 6m below
the rock.
Although
this slabby rock step only gets grade III/IV on topos, it is quite simply
nasty. If buried it will require laborious cleaning of snow at every move, just
to reveal what scant hand and foot holds are available. There are several ways it
can be tackled, and some say that left is easier. We went right, and found it
deeply unpleasant.
After
about 50m you can belay on trees below the top.
From
here there follows about 200m of steep and exposed snow climbing up the
magnificent lower arête, protected by slings on trees wherever possible, until
you reach the top of a sort of pinnacle. In good conditions it can be
simul-climbed, but be prepared to pitch it if necessary.
From
here make a short down-climb and cross a knife-edge section of about 20m, and
then simul-climb up the arête for another 200m to the bottom of the second rock
step. This section of arête goes through some of the most picturesque scenery
of the day, and has the atmosphere of a much bigger and more serious climb.
There
is an in-situ anchor at the bottom of the rock step. Climb up the initial
chimney then make steep moves out to the right on the arête. Continue up until
you reach the top where the route continues to the right through a rock cleft.
Climb
another pitch through this cleft and up into the gully above until your rope
runs out. From there you will just have another 10-20m to the top. Again,
depending on conditions, you could consider simul-climbing this upper section
through the gully.
As
the angle eases you will arrive at the top just short of the main hiking trail
from Yokodake. The views from up here are absolutely stunning!
Descent:
Once
at the hiking trail, you have several options:
(i)
The quickest way to get back down is to head south in the direction of Akadake
and descend the hiking trail down the Jizo-one ridge to the Gyouja-goya hut.
(ii)
You could head north to traverse
Mt Yoko over to Mt Io, and then descend from there back to the Akadake-kōsen
hut.
(iii) If you wish to summit the highest peak in the Yatsugatake range, simply continue southwards on the trail and up to the top of 2899m Mt Aka. Continue over the summit and down to the Bunzaburo ridge trail and follow it all the way down to the Gyouja-goya hut.
Summary:
Like
the famous phenomenological images where different people will either see a
duck or a rabbit, or a young woman versus an old lady, this classic route will
doubtless engender differing reports. Those who catch it in consolidated
conditions will say it’s easy. But those who find it under deep fresh untracked
snow will hold a far greater respect for the sort of experience it can provide.
For my partner and I it was extremely memorable, and I recommend it
unreservedly. Take plenty of slings for protection, and don’t forget your
camera.
*** NEWS ***
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